Sometimes it is the Least Expected

"CaptDale - is secretly British" (captdale)
10/10/2019 at 14:00 • Filed to: C4 Update, C4 Corvette

Well turns out the first master cylinder I got was the issue. Returned it, ordered another one, got it, installed it, bled very easily, and now my clutch works better than it ever has.

Fun fact the, I believe 92 and up, C4s will self bleed once you get enough fluid in the system. For instance I used and suction bleeder to get it to what I felt was about 95% bled. And with that knowledge I stopped cleaned up and took the car for a test drive and everything functioned. I waited a few hours and went for a drive and the clutch was perfect! Got home and the level in the reservoir had dropped a little giving me evidence it had self bled and I topped it off.

After all that I got the new wheel and hub installed

Sadly even though I thought I had the marks lined up, I am off I think a tooth. That is ok cause I have to take it apart anyway due to the lovely 80s-90s GM tilt steering issue where the bolts come loose and let the wheel wobble around. It was tolerable before, but now it is down right bad. So disassemble the column, take the bolts out, locktite them, and reinstall everything. Thanks GM.

After that I finished the rally light install.

I love the look and am decently happy with the result. The aftermarket clear front bumper insert is less quality than I had hoped for. This is also my first design. I have a second bumper for this car once I figure out how I want this set up. Unfortunately the Hella 500s that I got are only meant to be mounted vertically. I have them mounted horizontally to the impact bar since mounting them vertically would require mounting into the bumper facia itself and I didn’t want that. I will have to devise another mounting method because the beam of light that should be horizontal with the road is now perpendicular. I suppose that would work for lighting a straight beam ahead, but would blind people and not really work to light very dark roads.

Obvious inspiration is obvious.

There is also a CEL for

DTC 26 – Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Circuit

So I swapped out the purge valve at the manifold and the VERY dry rotted vacuum line. Still getting the code. Which means I am still having long starts. I am not sure what else to look at to see what is going on. So any C4 guys if you know or any Oppo techs have any suggestions. Sadly looking through the forum is a PIA because 1992-1996 and 1990-1993 have different meanings for the same trouble code numbers not even then going into the 1984-1989 cars too.

DISCUSSION (17)

someassemblyrequired > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/10/2019 at 14:30

On some cars (not sure about the C4), a stored EVAP code will take a long time to clear as it’s not tested on every startup/drive cycle. Also check your gascap as well and see if it’s still good.

MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick) > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/10/2019 at 14:36

Glad you fixed it! I always thought it was weird that the brakes on my Volvo seem to self-bleed. I figured i was just getting used to it, but maybe not. Why must GM build such cool things so poorly.

MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick) > someassemblyrequired
10/10/2019 at 14:37

How does one check a gas cap to see if it’s good? Is there even a point for pre-OBD stuff? (I am the on board diagnostics)

someassemblyrequired > MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
10/10/2019 at 14:53

You can pressure test it, but easiest usually just to pick one up at the auto parts store for a couple of bucks and swap it just to rule it out as that can cause the EVAP system to think there’s a leak somewhere . I’d probably clear codes and see if the code returns. If it does, swap the cap and go from there.

CaptDale - is secretly British > someassemblyrequired
10/10/2019 at 15:05

That is a good point. I should check the gas cap. Though I wouldn’t think that would affect my start up... but maybe.

Also I have had the battery off and start the car no light, then it comes back on fairly quickly.

CaptDale - is secretly British > MKULTRA1982(ConCrustyBrick)
10/10/2019 at 15:07

OBD1 is fairly useful and even pre that can really help you towards your issues. It just gets harder and harder to figure out the codes with blinking lights etc.

Odd think on my 95 is the diag port is OBD II style, but still OBDI.

someassemblyrequired > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/10/2019 at 15:53

Hmm, long start and codes it’s always worth checking the battery has enough oomph. Low voltage/brownouts can cause all kinds of issues and mask other codes.

EDIT: also check evap can isn’t cracked

benn454 > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/10/2019 at 16:24

Looks great! Just please don’t put projectors on it.

Man, I miss the C5-R. That thing was a beast.

MM54 > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/10/2019 at 17:47

Solenoid Valve Circuit as a trouble code sounds to me like it’s detecting an open circuit or a short, not so much that there is an evap leak (those are usually titled “leak”) - check the wiring and especially the grounds for that solenoid; make sure nothing is corroded, pinched, cut, or broken.

CaptDale - is secretly British > benn454
10/10/2019 at 21:22

Well projectors would make much more sense than almost any other light source . What I wouldn’t want to do is put LEDs or HIDs not meant for a reflective housing into my headlights. that is where people get blinded. If I were to put in projectors (like most oem headlights since 200o) visibility would be increased and there would be less wasted light blinding other drivers.

What happens is people put bulbs in on the cheap not buying the proper LED, HID, or hell even halogens designed for their housing style which creates a TON of wasted light going into oncoming traffic etc and blinding people while also usually decreasing your visibility sometimes drastically.

The C5.R was amazing! My favorite is still the C6.R GT1

CaptDale - is secretly British > MM54
10/10/2019 at 21:24

I thought that too, but it is the only evap code for the car. So it could be wiring or bad evap system.

MM54 > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/10/2019 at 21:34

As in that is the only possible evap code? Surprising if so, and not very useful.

CaptDale - is secretly British > MM54
10/11/2019 at 01:32

As far as I can tell on the list

1992-1996 (LT-1 VIN P)

DTC Codes 72-99 Pertain to 1994-1996 (LT-1 VIN P)

Code Definition

DTC 11 – Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit

DTC 13 – Bank 1Left Front) Heated Oxygen} Oxygen Sensor (H02S) #1 Circuit (Open Circuit)

DTC 14 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage Low,

High Temperature Indicated)

DTC 15 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High,

Low Temperature Indicated)

DTC 16 – Distributor Ignition System (Low Resolution Pulse)

DTC 18 – Injector Circuit(s)

DTC 21 – Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High)

DTC 22 – Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage Low)

DTC 23 – Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High,

Low Temperature Indicated)

DTC 24 – Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit

DTC 25 – Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage Low,

High Temperature Indicated)

DTC 26 – Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Circuit

DTC 27 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Vacuum Control Signal Solenoid Valve Circuit

DTC 28 – Transmission Range (TA) Pressure Switch Assembly Fault

DTC 29 – Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Circuit

DTC 32 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)

DTC 33 – Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High – Low Vacuum)

DTC 34 – Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage Low – High Vacuum)

DTC 36 – Distributor Ignition System (Faulty High Resolution Pulse or Extra Low Resolution Pulse Detected)

DTC 37 – Brake Switch Stuck “ON

DTC 38 – Brake Switch Stuck “OFF”

DTC 41 – Ignition Control (IC) Circuit (Open Circuit)

DTC 42 – Ignition Control (IC) Circuit (Shorted or Grounded Circuit)

DTC 43 – Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit

DTC 44 – Bank 1 (Left Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated)

DTC 45 – Bank 1 (Left Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Rich Exhaust Indicated)

DTC 47 – Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit or Module Missing

DTC 48 – Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit

DTC 50 – System Voltage Low

DTC 51 – EEPROM Programming Error

DTC 52 – Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High, Low Temperature Indicated)

DTC 53 – System Voltage High

DTC 55 – Fuel Lean Monitor

DTC 58 – Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit Low (High Temperature Indicated)

DTC 59 – Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit High (Low Temperature Indicated)

DTC 62 – Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage Low, High Temperature Indicated)

DTC 63 – Bank 2 (Right Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Open Circuit)

DTC 64 – Bank 2 (Right Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #1 Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated)

DTC 65 – Bank 2 (Right Front) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #t Circuit (Rich Exhaust Indicated)

DTC 66 – A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit (Open or Shorted)

DTC 67 – A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit (Pressure Sensor or A/C Clutch Circuit Problem)

DTC 68 – A/C Relay Circuit (Shorted Circuit)

DTC 69 – A/C Clutch Circuit

DTC 70 – A/C Clutch Relay Driver Circuit

DTC 72 – Vehicle Speed Sensor Loss

DTC 73 – Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) Circuit (Current Error)

DTC 74 – Traction Control System (TCS) Circuit Low

DTC 75 – Transmission System Voltage Low

DTC 77 – Fan Control PCM Terminal “All”

DTC 78 – Fan Control PCM Terminal “Al0”

DTC 79 – Transmission Fluid Over-temp

DTC 81 – Transmission .2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit

DTC 82 – Transmission 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit

DTC 83 – TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Fault

DTC 84 – 3-2 Control Solenoid Circuit (Automatic Transmission)

DTC 84 – 2nd and 3rd Gear Block-out Relay Control Circuit (Manual Transmission)

DTC 85 – Transmission TCC Stuck “ON”

DTC 90 – Transmission TCC Solenoid Circuit

DTC 91 – One to Four Upshift Lamp (Manual Transmission)

DTC 97 – VSS Output Circuit

DTC 99 – Tach Output Circuit

DTC P0116 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Range/Performance Problem

DTC P0117 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input

DTC P0118 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit High Input

DTC P0131 – Bank 1 HO2S #1 Circuit Low Voltage (Lean

DTC P0132 – Bank 1 HO2S #1 Circuit High Voltage (Rich)

DTC P0133 – Bank 1 HO2S #1 Circuit Slow Response

DTC P0134 – Bank 1 HO2S #1 Circuit No Activity Detected

DTC P0135 – Bank 1 HO2S #1 Heater Circuit

DTC P0151 – Bank 2 HO2S #1 Circuit Low Voltage (Lean)

DTC P0152 – Bank 2 HO2S #1 Circuit High Voltage (Rich)

DTC P0153 – Bank 2 HO2S #1 Circuit Slow Response

DTC P0154 – Bank 2 HO2S #1 Circuit No Activity Detected

DTC P0155 – Bank 2 HO2S #1 Heater Circuit Malfunction

DTC P0158 – Bank 2 HO2S #2 Circuit High Voltage

DTC P0160 – Bank 2 HO2S #2 Circuit No Activity Detected

DTC P0161 – Bank 2 HO2S #2 Heater Circuit Malfunction

DTC P0171 – Bank 1 Fuel Trim System Too Lean

DTC P0172 – Bank 1 Fuel Trim System Too Rich (1 of 2)

DTC P0174 – Bank 2 Fuel Trim System Too Lean

DTC P0175 – Bank 2 Fuel Trim System Too Rich (1 of 2)

DTC PO420 – Bank 2 Catalyst System – Low Oxygen Storage Capacity Indicated

DTC P1114 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit (intermittent Low Input Voltage)

DTC P1115 – Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit (Intermittent High Input Voltage)

DTC P1133 – Bank 1 HO2S #1 Circuit Not Enough Switches

DTC P1153 – Bank 2 HO2S #1 Circuit Not Enough Switches

DTC P1158 – Bank 2 HO2S #2 Shifted Rich

1994-1995 LT5/ZR-1 Trouble codes

Due to federal regulations implementing uniform trouble codes throughout the automotive industry LT5/ZR-1 Corvettes used many of the same 1994 and up codes with the exception of the codes listed below. (These trouble codes may be in addition to the possible codes above or different meaning)

DTC 31 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit

DTC 41 Cylinder Select Error (Faulty or Incorrect PROM)

DTC 54 Fuel Pump Circuit (Low Voltage)

DTC 56 Secondary Air Inlet Valve Actuator Vacuum Sensor Circuit (Signal Voltage High “High Vacuum or Signal Voltage Low” (Low Vacuum)

DTC 61 Secondary Air Inlet Valve System

DTC 66 Engine Power Mode Switch Circuit (Signal Voltage High or Signal Voltage Low)

4.7 clear ECM fault codes

Press the TRIP RESET button until 4.0 is displayed in the module number area. Then press the TRIP/ODO button until 4.7 is displayed in the module number area. Press and hold the ENG/MET button until “—“ is displayed. This will clear any ECM codes. After “—“ is displayed turn the key off, wait ten seconds turn the key back on and check for any ECM codes.

ABS/ASR EBTCM

Press the TRIP RESET button until 9.0 is displayed in the module number area. Press the TRIP/ODO button until “9.7” is displayed in the module number area. Press and hold the ENG/MET button until “—“ is displayed. This will clear any ABS/ASR codes. after “—“ is displayed, turn the key off, wait ten seconds, turn the key back on and check for any ABS/ASR codes.

benn454 > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/12/2019 at 16:59

Counterpoint: they look terrible on the C5

CaptDale - is secretly British > benn454
10/13/2019 at 13:02

What look terrible on the C5? These?

Kinja'd!!!

I like them. Remind me of the C5.R, but for the C4 I was going for something along these lines

Kinja'd!!!

Really the only decent looking way to do it. Plus exposed fasteners

benn454 > CaptDale - is secretly British
10/13/2019 at 16:56

Those are the ones. I can't stand them. They look like tumors to me. I like the flush ones on that C4 much better.

CaptDale - is secretly British > benn454
10/13/2019 at 23:14

Fair enough.